Day 1
Our flight on Sunday also didn't leave until 5PM, but that actually worked out well for us as it was Easter. While we were waiting for our flight at LAX we felt the 7.2 Baja California earthquake. Afterwards, we felt we needed to have a $13 margarita at El Cholo to set the vacation mood. Our flight was nonstop to Kahului, Maui on Delta.
Day 2
So the next morning we woke up bright and early (by our standards) so we could return to the south side of the island for our reserved Molokini-Lana'i Snorkel tour with Pacific Whale Foundation (PWF). Long story short, we were notified of boat problems shortly prior to our 8:30AM departure time and around 8:50AM the entire tour was cancelled. We did get a full refund, but the tour would have been 7.25 hours so this really jacked up our plans for the day. There are snorkeling tours that leave all over Maui, but because we also didn't want to wake up super early and booked a "later morning" tour, all the other tours had left by this time. There are sometimes afternoon tours, but those were all cancelled because it was already windy at this time and only pick up in the afternoon when the tradewinds really set in. Even given what happened to us, I would still consider PWF in the future as it was the cheapest and only option for these 2 destinations (Molokini AND Lana'i) and PWF is a nonprofit, so all the proceeds support a nonprofit. Of course, being a nonprofit probably explains the shoddy boat, and they do have a reputation for being unreliable. Still, as long as things are always smooth when they do get out in the water, I'll forgive them for not having six sigma reliability.
We walked off our brunch by perusing Front Street and eventually walking to the Lahaina Maui Tacos. Despite being full, we figured we had to try Maui Tacos while in Maui so we got a combo and each had a fish taco. It was grilled fish, which is nice, but I realize I like fried fish better in my fish tacos, a la Taco Nazo. I'm definitely glad we tried it, though.
Determined to still do some snorkeling on Maui, we stopped by the Lahaina Cannery Mall and bought snorkels at Longs Drugs and fins at Boss Frog's. We then drove back south and snorkeled off the west coast of Maui at Olowalu. It was about 1PM at this time and, as it turns out, it is quite windy come afternoon on the west coast of Maui. The water was also colder than I imagined (and hoped) it would be. We did see lots of reef and fish and at least satisfied our itch to snorkel.
We then set out to do what we were originally planning to do after our PWF trip: circumnavigate the west lobe of Maui and drive the unpaved road on the Northwest of Maui (possibly breaching our rental car agreement). I rented a SUV expressly for this purpose and for the upcoming, similarly unpaved, "Road Beyond Hana." I followed this Frommer's article, except backwards as we were going from Central Maui to West Maui. Per Frommer's, we first stopped in the Wailuku area to see the Halekii and Pihana Heiaus. Heiaus are ancient places of worship that were generally located in beautiful / spiritual locations. These 2 were located on a hill that overlooked Central Maui and the northern coast.
By this point in the drive the road had widened and was smooth. Then, after rounding the northernmost point of Maui, we looked for an outlet to Honolua Bay. Our first search brought us to a private residence in the middle of a jungle and me falling into a river.
Although we couldn't enjoy the sunset at the restaurant, we were still able to enjoy the beautiful Maui sunset from the balcony of our room.
Day 3
This day was dedicated to the Road to Hana. The Hana Highway is a 68-mile long windy, twisty road that follows the coastline of the eastern lobe of Maui. I opted to also do the "Road Beyond Hana", which completes the circumnavigation of Eastern Maui.
Our major stops were:
1. Waikamoi Ridge Trail, btwn miles 9-10: A short loop nature walk through lush trees, bamboo and ferns that took roughly half an hour.
2. Puahokamoa Falls, btwn miles 10-11: I initially drove past the lower falls and had to backtrack. Located off the ocean-side of the road, there were no signs and the best view of the falls came after crawling through a fence.
3. Keanae Peninsula, turnoff btwn miles 16-17: After the turnoff, it's less than a mile to get right up to the coast. The dark jagged lava rocks and the crashing waves made this a particularly beautiful stop.
4. Keanae Arboretum, btwn miles 16-17: The arboretum houses over 150 varieties of tropical plants and is a great place to see indigenous flowers and painted bark eucalyptus trees.
5. Waikani (Three Bears) Falls, btwn miles 19-20: While the falls were beautiful as viewed from the roadside, the really cool part was climbing under the bridge and taking the short jungle-like path to get an up close view of the falls.
7. Waianapanapa State Park, mile 32 / Hana / Hamoa Beach, btwn miles 51-50 (the mile markers descend once beyond Hana):
9. Waimoku Falls / Oheo Gulch (in Haleakala National Park), mile 42: We first did the Pipiwai Trail, a 4 mi roundtrip hike that includes a 650 ft change in elevation, bamboo forests, and Waimoku Falls at the end. The hike was simply incredible. A half mile in was Makahiku Falls, which, at 185 feet, was quite magnificent on its own. Then, about a mile in, began the bamboo forests. At the very end was Waimoku Falls, a gigantic 400 ft waterfall that's the tallest on Maui.
As if Waimoku Falls wasn't enough, the trailhead also splits off to the Kuloa Point Trail, a 0.5 mi loop trail that passes by the ocean and Oheo Gulch, aka the Seven Sacred Pools. Unfortunately, we were notified upon entering the national park that swimming in the Pools was not permitted on this day due to weather conditions and the risk of flash floods. Doing so was high on my list of things to do, but it has to wait 'til a future trip.
We left the park a little after 6pm. We tried to look for Charles Lindbergh's Grave but couldn't find it. It was getting late so we decided to continue on, which turned out to be a good idea as it started to rain heavily just as we connected with the 7 miles of unpaved road on the southeast of Maui, i.e. the Road Beyond Hana. There really is nothing out there, but it was great seeing untouched Maui (aside from the road, of course). Many are concerned with the safety of driving this road. As the last picture demonstrates, this road can be extremely dangerous (and we actually didn't see it until we randomly decided to stop and Uyen had stepped out).
We reached Lahaina around 8:30pm and decided to have dinner on Front Street at Mala Ocean Tavern. We had the seared ahi bruschetta and kobe burger. For dessert, I had the dragon fruit sorbet, which is now my favorite dessert.
Day 4
For our last day we pre-scheduled with Haleakala Bike Company to do a bike tour down Haleakala volcano. Many people do a sunrise tour, but we opted to do the "Summit Deluxe Tour" so we wouldn't have to wake up at an ungodly hour. Our tour started at 9am and met in Haiku, which is just a little bit past Paia along the Hana Highway. We left the Kaanapali Ocean Inn for the last time at 7:45am and arrived in about an hour. After signing waiver forms and such, it was an hour+ van ride to the summit. Unfortunately, one of the drawbacks of going at this time is that it tends to be when the fog rolls in. We really couldn't see much of the crater at all because of the thick fog. I still got an appreciation for how big the thing is, though. We made 2 stops at the summit area: the visitor center and a site where we got a clear look at some observatories, telescope and missile defense facilities!?
To Be Continued...
Cost Breakdown
$1,018.00 - Package for 2 with roundtrip air via Delta + 3-nights at Kaanapali Ocean Inn from Pleasant Holidays
$191.13 - Rental car from Hertz (using prepay option that gave an extra 10% discount)
$94.80 - Dinner at Plantation House Restaurant
$10.00 - Entrance fee for Haleakala National Park
$71.70 - Dinner at Mala Ocean Tavern
$167.88 ($79.99+$3.95 for optional bike insurance+tax x2) - Haleakala Bike Co.'s "Summit Deluxe" Bike Tour
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$1,553.51